Trans Canada Trail - St Tite Des Caps to Anse Aux Vaches

Hiking the 'Trans Canada Trail' seems to have become an annual ritual... Also, this is the same one which i attempted earlier during the year but had to return empty handed because of not knowing French (Why you should know French !)

Last year, around the same time, Rias and I did a shorter hike on the same trail (2010 Trans Canada Trail Hike)

This time around, I decided to do it solo - this one being my first solo overnight hike. Last year we had hiked till Camp Gribane but i wanted to stretch myself this time around. So, I decided to go till Anse Aux Vaches (Google translates it to 'Handle the cows' !) which would be a 35km round trip from St Tite Des Caps.

This segment of Trans Canada trail is mostly through dense vegetation and offers some spectacular views of St Lawrence river. Although the elevation gain is not significant, the frequent uphill-downhill stretches makes it challenging.

DAY 1:

Montreal - Quebec (Many operators ply this route)

Quebec - St Tite Des Caps (Public transit -> Intercar)

The forecast predicted rains for the evening so I had to reach Anse Aux Vaches and setup tent before it starts pouring down. The hike between St Tite Des Caps and Camp Gribane (~10Km) is frequented by many day hikers. However, the stretch between Gribane and Anse Aux Vaches is totally deserted - There were spider webs across the trail, which clearly meant nobody has gone through that segment for quite some time.

'Stove not working !'

I managed to complete the 17km strech in about 7hrs. Reached the campsite before six in the evening. All i had since morning was a muffin at Quebec bus station and nuts during the hike. I was looking up for a good dinner before I called it a day. Thats when my stove pump refused to work - after trying to fix it for an hour, i quit. I had no other option but to have a couple of bars and go to sleep.

DAY 2:

Luckily for me, breakfast did not require boiling water. Else, it could have easily been one of the worst hikes ever ! I had a nice breakfast, which would possibly be the only meal before dinner. I had to start really early at 5AM to make sure i reach back on time for the 1 PM bus. I made good progress - also managed to stop at view points and still was back in time. 

'Bus full...'  

Apparently, there was more excitement left ! It is a first come first serve ticket issued on this route - so, if the bus is already full, you just have to wait for the next one. That is exactly what happened with me but i was in no mood to wait for 5 hrs for the next bus. So, i asked the driver if i could just stand in the aisle till Quebec - Thankfully, he agreed and I was tracking to plan again !

Unfortunately, i forgot to take a camera along - all i had with me was a primitive VGA camera on my cell phone, which also happens to be primitive !!.

You will find some good pictures of the same trail in my previous blog  (2010 Trans Canada Trail Hike)

Up next: Chic-Chocs Mountain range - Mt Albert in Gaspesie National Park.

Into the Arctic - Auyuittuq National Park - Tips for the first time hiker

All throughout my research for this hike, I have not been able to find in depth advice/tips for the first time hiker to Auyuittuq. So, here is a compilation of our mistakes (& learnings) and things that we did right ! You may want to have a look at my gear list (Auyuittuq List) before going through this article.

Though this is meant for the first time hiker to Auyuittuq, even those who have been to Auyuittuq might be able to pick up a point or two.

Travel

What we did right:

Flight cancellations are common due to unpredictable weather. Allow for one day between transits - we saw a group stranded because one of their flights was cancelled and they were at risk of missing their connecting flight. You can avoid this mess by planning better...

What we didn't:

Our planning was just about perfect - we just had to spend one extra day at Pangnirtung because we wound up earlier than expected due to bad weather.

Tent

Tent is the most crucial element of your trip. Your trip can easily be a misadventure if you don't have the right tent. It should be able to face extreme elements !

What we did right:

• Wind : Make sure your tent is able to withstand heavy gusts of wind (30-35kmph at least). Add extra anchors even if it isn't windy when you setup the tent.
• Water : You cannot afford to let water in at any cost - the risk of hypothermia is quite high in these environments. Make sure you always use a tarp below the tent. Check out the waterproofness rating. I own the 2 person MSR Hubba Hubba and did not face any issues even in extreme rain conditions we had. No condensation issues despite almost six nights of continuous rain (because of the mesh screen inside which provides very good ventilation)!
• Tent Location : There are no designated campsites - although you may certainly be able to find some traces of previous campers. Avoid exposed areas. Don't be too close to bed of mountains (rock falls are common) and don't be too close to the river either. We saw some tent sites (traces of previous campers) go under water due to heavy rains. Avoid water streams (even those without water - you never know !)
• Tent Positioning: While setting up tent, determine wind direction and expose least area to wind. Try to expose corners to wind - this will deflect wind and your tent will not take a hit. This precaution may be extremely helpful if wind direction doesn't change. If the wind direction does keep changing, you anyways have no other better option !!

What we didn't:

Nothing !! - We were bang on. Not even a single drop of water inside tent despite 6 nights of rain and one night of storm. 

Stove, Food and Fuel

What we did right: 

Carry 2 days of extra food - you might be stranded at river crossings and may have to extend your trip.

Carry a backup stove - the first emergency shelter is 20+Kms

Carry enough fuel - Again, don't depend on emergency caches ! About ~100 ml per person per day. This is just an average - go by this if you don't have any prior experience. We managed with ~1L for 2 people for a trip of 8 days. We cooked twice a day - but only boiled water as we had ready-to-eat stuff. We carried 2 litres...

Self sufficiency is the best option for this trip - Don't depend on emergency shelters but know what is available there.

What we didn't

Read instructions thorougly on packs before you leave. Some food items (e.g. scrambled eggs) might need additional utensils. We carried 3-4 extra packs which we could not use. Easily avoidable !

This applies only if you intend to carry ready to eat items which require only boiling water. If you are an experienced hiking cook, you can ignore this...

River crossings

What we did right:

We carried waterblocker sealskinz socks. It worked decently well - although we would have liked to perform better. We did have water inside our socks... This is possibly the best option around.

What we didn't:

Get water shoes.

We used sandals (Merell Waterpro) to cross rivers. This was not a bright option. Your feet is exposed to cold water and you feel that chillness for quite some time. Small pieces of rock get stuck frequently- it was irritating to remove them each time we crossed a river stream.

Be prepared to walk long distances on your water shoes. We had heavy rain and there were numerous new streams created on our return. I almost walked 10-15 kms on my sandals - it takes a toll on your ankles...

Good strong hiking poles

Lighter isn't always better ! 

We opted for ultra light poles from Black Diamond - very expensive and they do not serve the purpose. My poles broke off (yes, thats right !) during a river crossing (luckily, on our return trip). I did the remaining crossings with one pole !!

Get something which is sturdy.

Satellite Phone

What we did right:

Though this is optional, we did carry one. Was very useful - we got the weather forecast and our decision to cut short the trip was based on this forecast. The forecast was indeed very accurate. We were not stranded and did not need rescue (unlike all others who were rescued by helicopters. We were the last ones to come out of the park by themselves) just because we carried a satellite phone.

And of course, you can keep your loved ones informed - saves some unnecesary tense moments for them.

Iridium satellite phones work well in the arctic. We carried 9555 - Latest, lightest and sturdy. Worked as sweet as melted chocolate !!

Don't be ashamed to ask

What we did right:

We always asked about conditions ahead from hikers who were crossing us in the opposite direction (There were not many and there will never be many !! ). It helps tremendously to determine water levels in rivers beforehand. Else, you might have to camp right next to the river to figure out the right time to cross it - you might end up putting up tent in a risky spot.

Others

These apply to any hike in general.

Backpack: Get a comfortable backpack - avoid first use in the arctic. Prefer tried and tested ones.

Map: Get a chrismar map. This is the only map available - very helpful. You can order it online (www.chrismar.com).

Sleeping bag rating: Normally your sleeping bag should be rated 10 degrees lower than the lowest temperature you can expect in a trip. We had a comfortable trip in July with a -7 Deg C rated sleeping bag.

Sleeping pad: Provides insulation and comfort

Hiking boots: Try to get boots that go over the ankle - you don't have to change shoes often for river crossings. The hike is not technically risky. Any type is OK but waterproofing (goretex) is must.

Compass: We carried one but never used it. You may need it in the northern segment of the pass where there is no fixed trail.

Gaiters: Optional but may be helpful. You can skip it...

Energy bars/gels, hydration pack, water purifier tablets (we carried but never used it! You cannot get purer water on this planet - Make sure you collect water from side streams and not the river. You may need purifiers if you use river water) and layered clothing.

Hope this helps - All the best !

Feel free to contact me (by leaving a comment) if you need additional information - I would be glad to assist...

Into the arctic - Auyuittuq National Park - Video Blog

The storyline is self explanatory and I do not want to spoil the suspense with a brief write-up here.  

This is my first attempt at video blogging and hence the effort might seem amateurish. But, it certainly looks like a decent start !!

Just a few words of caution:

1. Views and opinions expressed are of an amateur hiker from Asia (S/P). Experienced North American hikers, who have done Auyuittuq, have full rights to disagree.

2. I would recommend you to watch both videos together (back-2-back) to get a feel of the whole story - if you don't have the time (~10 mins), please wait until you have it. However, if you don't have time and will never have time - then please feel free to watch as you wish.

3. This video blog does NOT claim to be an Auyuittuq guide - Events that occured were one of those rare extremes which you may not face during a regular Auyuittuq hike. I would be following this up with a detailed guide for first time hikers to Auyuittuq.

PART 1:

PART 2:

 

Enjoy - Detailed writeup (with more pics) coming soon. !!

Grand Canyon hike - South Rim to North Rim

As I look back at this rim-to-rim hike of  grand canyon, I realize that this one is indeed going to be very special. And, a rim-to-rim hike is possibly the only way one can experience this magnificent masterpiece in its entirety.

Grand Canyon and its history:

The sheer size and age of these structures is unbelievable. The majestic grand canyon(s) gave us a glimpse of the insignificance of human race in the larger scheme of things. Here is a brief history:

Grand Canyon lies in Colorado plateau, which was uplifted by collision of tectonic plates. Colorado river and its smaller streams have  been cutting through layers of rocks for millions of years resulting in the formation of Grand Canyon. The age of Grand Canyon is a hot topic for debate but Wiki states that Colorado river made its way through the plateau at least 17 million years ago. Since then, Colorado river has been eroding layers of rock to result in the current structure of Grand Canyon.

The Hike:

Hiking 21 miles (33Kms) in temperatures of 40-45 degree celsius is certainly not a casual hike.  Going down ~4800 ft and coming up ~5800 ft is a daunting task, to say the least. The hike is not technically risky as such but the extremely hot weather makes it a very challenging hike.

DAY 1: Rendezvous at Las Vegas

Five of us flew in from different part of North America to Las Vegas - Ali from Raleigh, Ady from LA, Pushkar & Deepak from San Jose and I flew in from Montreal. Luckily for us, we didn't face any flight delays like the colorado hike last year (http://athmagyaan.blogspot.com/2010/08/colorado-trekkers-paradise.html)

After spending the day at a hotel in Las Vegas, we left for the campground just outside Grand Canyon National park. Just before entering the campground, we were stopped by a police officer who informed us that the campround was full. This would have been a major upset to our plan as there is hardly any other spot available nearby for camping. But, luckily for us, we had reserved a campsite and were allowed to enter on providing reservation details. I guess the officer was bluffing to prevent gate crashers from entering the campground.

We reached our campsite around midnight and were ready for a short sleep as we had an early start the next day.

DAY 2: South Rim (South Kaibab Trailhead) to Cottonwood campground  via Phantom ranch (14 miles/22.4 Kms)

After just three hours of sleep we set off on this 21 mile rim-to-rim hike. We reached just on time for the 415AM shuttle which took us till South Kaibab trailhead. Here is a view of how it looked just after we started:

 

Grand Canyon at South Rim

Grand Canyon at South Rim (Source: Ali)

The first 7 miles were relatively easy but were taking a toll on our knees. This portion of hike is a steep downhill stretch all throughout until Phantom Ranch. As visibility was getting better, we had the opportunity to witness this majestic beauty.

On the way down to Phantom Ranch

Ady (Left) and Pushkar

 

Colorado river

We reached Phantom Ranch (7 miles from Trailhead) at around 930 - about five hours after we started. We were beginning to feel the heat now. The only direction temperature was moving was upwards.

Water is all you need !
 

Ady's turn!

And then Pushkar !

That's where we were warned by a ranger. We were about to start hiking the next 7 miles at 10AM in temperatures of over 40C. It seems there have been a couple of rescues during the past two days in the same stretch. Hikers seemed to have under-estimated the heat. We were told to wait till 4PM to start the hike. But then, without adequate sleep, next day's hike would have been tough. We decide to proceed albeit with all precautions given by the ranger (which also included getting down in water wherever possible). 

As we were hiking through the flat patch between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood camp, we realised that we had not made the right move - but, we had no other alternative. We should have either started earlier or hiked the first 7 miles faster to beat the heat. 

One of those water breaks!

 

 

On the flat open stretch which made us stretch !

We got exhausted but still made it to Cottonwood camp in decent shape and with lots of time at hand. Ali and Deepak, who were quite ahead of us, reached cottonwood before 10AM thereby escaping the heat. Aditya, Pushkar and I reached at around 4PM.

There was nice little pool at Cottonwood camp much to the relief of all of us.

One can easily guess the temperature of water from their expressions !

After spending sometime there, we had  an early dinner and went to bed at around 830. That's when we realized that we had carried our sleeping bags for no reason. It was really hot - some people didn't even bother to get their tents. After this tiring day, a good sleep was very essential for next day's hike and we did manage to have that.

DAY 3: Cottonwood Campground to North Rim (7 miles/11.2 Km)


Next day, we started hiking the last 7 mile stretch at about 330AM. This stretch had some lovely views as we were gaining elevation. These 7 miles were the steepest of the lot but we could do it without getting completely exhausted as we were in the shade most of the time.

Time for reflection !

Pushkar finds a cozy(??) place for a quick nap !

Once at the top of North rim, we had all the time in the world.

At the North Rim - Victory at last !

We had one full to day to look around before we take the shuttle back to South rim. We got some good pictures there.

Pushkar tracing the trail - South rim is at the background at this pic - that's where we had started !

One of those rare pictures with all crazy buggers !

 

DAY 4: Return to Las Vegas


Early next day, we took the transcanyon shuttle to South rim. We spent some time at the South rim before starting our journey back to Vegas.

South rim too was good - We didn't notice it as we had started before sunrise !
 

We made a quick stop at Hoover dam which lies on the way to Vegas. An engineering marvel, hoover dam was built in the 1930s - it is tough to imagine that something so big and complex was accomplished such a long time back.

We reach the airport on time for our flights and look back at a very satisfying hike - one that will linger in our memories for quite some time. Also, this one being my last hike in the US before i head back to Asia, it was indeed special.

Images are courtesy of Ady & Pushkar (unless stated otherwise)

Into the arctic - Auyuittuq National Park - Gear List

Finally, it is time for my longest ever hiking trip (turns out to be the most expensive one too !!). This time next week, i shall be airbound to the remote wilderness of Auyuittuq National Park in the Canadian arctic. The 10 day trip would involve hiking 75kms through 6 Nights/7 days, 2 nights camping at the outskirts of Auyuittuq and 2 nights at a nice (&pricey) hotel in Iqaluit.

Just reaching Auyuittuq National Park takes 3 flights (Montreal->Ottawa->Iqaluit->Pangnirtung) and a boat ride !! Thats what makes this trip so exciting... There is so much uncertainty throughout the trip.

It has been a long search and i finally seem to be near the finale of 'to-purchase' lists... This has involved months of research and then finally choosing the right stuff that will last in the arctic. This was crucial because if you dont have it in your backpack, you just cant get it.

So here it is:

BackPack, Sleeping bag and tent

Backpack --> Gregory Palisade 80 - Superbly comfortable
Sleeping bag --> North Face Cat's Meow (-7C) - tried and tested on many hikes; extremely satisfied with this purchase (Thanks Pushkar! )
Thermarest prolite plus sleepig pad -- very comfortable
Pillow - light weight, compact, air fill
Summit Bag --> Gregory Miniwok 18L ( Nice little summit bag that is hydration compatible)
Tent --> MSR Hubba Hubba (2 person) - Superlight, easy setup, sturdy

Kitchen

Stove --> Optimus Nova+ expedition multifuel stove + 2 1L fuel bottles - Have read a lot of reviews and this one seems to be one amongst the best multifuel stoves. MSR also has a couple of good ones.
Backup stove --> Solid fuel stove (Open flames are not allowed in the Park - to be used only in case of emergency)
Kitchen Pot --> MSR Alpinist 2 - Lightweight, compact, foldable handle, plastic holder on lid for easy lift off
Fork/Spoon --> 2 in 1 from MEC
Knife --< Opinel #8 foldable knife
Stormproof, waterproof matches

Food
--> Loads of stuff - 4-5 Kgs. MountainHouse, Backpackers pantry, Planters etc. Food is crucial on a trip like this and it is advised to carry atleast 1-2 days of extra food (Considering the fact that emergency response is measured in 'days' rather than hours! ) Everything from Chicken teriyaki to Pasta to Soups to Granola mixes...
--> Lots of Powerbar gels,bars,Nuts & Chocolate.
--> Electrolyte tablets that can be dissolved in water (Nice replacement for Gatorade- lightweight and less bullky)

Clothing & Footwear

Base Layer --> Polartek base layer from MEC (2) - lovely fit (It has been a struggle to find something that fits this well in North America !! )

Mid Layer --> Arcteryx Fleece - Simple, elegant, made of Polartek material
Outer Layer --> Kanuk (-40C rated sturdy jacket), Arcteryx rain shell (Made of Goretex Paclite - ligthweight, waterproof)

2 Half sleeve 100% polyester T shirts (cotton is not advisable for cold conditions as it soaks in moisture)

1 full sleeve Polyester T shirt

2 Hiking shorts - Columbia

1 North Face convertible hiking pant

1 Skiing pant - with a woolen base layer and waterproof outer layer

1 woolen sweater (just in case! Taking no chances...)

Glove liners, Woolen Kanuk Tuque

Waterblocker sealskinz socks (for river crossings)

North Face Vibram/goretex  hiking shoes - (Dont recollect name of the model. Light weight, comfortable and breathable+waterproof)

Merell waterpro sandals (for river crossings)

Emergency

Emergency survival blanket for 2 - for hypothermia

Adventure medical kit - ultralight 5

Tent repair kit

Thermarest repair kit for sleeping pad

Sewing kit & adhesive

Duct tape - for backpack/sleeping bag etc

Goretex patches - waterproof patches for outer layer repair.

Spare laces

Insect repellant

Mosquito net for head/neck

Others

Iridium Satellite phone - works decently well in the Arctic

Hydration pack 2L Camelbak

Nalgene 1L bottle

Columbia 750ml bottle

Trekking poles - Black Diamond ultralight (250g)

Gaiters

MSR water pump+ filter

Straps+cords etc.

D90 Nikon camera + 18-105 lens (looking around for wide angle lens)

I still have some items in my 'to-purchase' list which includes Polar bear repellants, spare batteries for D90 and a service kit for the stove.

I hope all this helps me get back in a single piece !! Whatever be the result, I am surely going to enjoy this one till the end !!

'The tree of life' - A masterpiece !!

A classic, exceptional movie after a long long time...

'The tree of life' is the story of a dis-illusioned man who has a troubled relationship with his father. The story beautifully intertwines his life and the evolution of earth. It is a wonderfully crafted film with superb visuals and a very thoughtful storyline. The visuals used to depict evolution of life on earth are as exquisite as the best documentaries on Discovery or Nat Geo.


Here is the trailer (Source: YouTube)

Superb performances from Brad pitt, Jessica Chastain and the kid who has enacted Sean Penn's childhood. The soundtrack, too, matches up to every other aspect of the movie and adds a fine touch to the central theme.

STOP HERE if you intend to watch the movie. The portion below contains spoilers...


Brad Pitt, a strict father to his sons, is a hard believer in struggle in this world and tries to ready his kids for this battle of survival. His dialogues, like the one below, portray the struggle exactly the way it is and makes us wonder if this struggle is worth it.

'Some day you will fall down and weep. You will understand it all. All Things.'


Jessica Chastain, a true love believer, riases her kids to be good human beings. Since Brad Pitt is mostly out on work, she is the one who actually inculcates values in kids.  Again, she too has some powerful dialogues which speak for what she stands for..

'There are two ways through life - The way of nature and the way of grace. You have to chose which one you follow'


'Unless you love, your life will flash by'

Sean Penn, the eldest son of Brad Pitt and Jessica Chastain, is a dis-illusioned man who has had a troubled childhood. He questions his own existence and all the relationships he has had. This questioning has been beautifully interwoven with the evolution of life on earth and also raises some key questions on purpose and longevity of our existence as a race.


Terence Malick, the director, has done a splendid job in getting this executed perfectly. Cinematography is excellent. The visuals of universe are a beauty to watch on big screen and have a long standing impact.

Soundtrack by Alexandre Desplat blends in very well with the theme and adds on to the aura the movie creates.

All in all, an artistic, well crafted, superbly executed, thought provoking movie..


CAUTION: This film is certainly not made for action/ lovers - Some parts of the movie are indeed very slow to give more depth to the theme.

A refreshing fortnight !!

The past 15 days have been very refreshing in terms of watching quality movies, both english as well as french. I have not been able to upload their reviews as and when i saw them and hence this consolidated review.

First Grader

A lovely film setup in Kenya, a former British colony. Maruge, who fought for freedom from British rule, is now in his 80s and wants to join a primary school as the Kenyan government announces free education for ALL.

The story shuttles between his past and the present and portrays the need to learn from the past. Nothing can stop Maruge from learning and he persists despite all the opposition from fellow villagers and politicians.

Lovely visuals, great African music and an inspiring true story ! Must watch...

Here is the trailer: (Source IMDb)

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi4027358489/


Midnight in Paris

A writer (Owen Wilson) is on a vacation in Paris. He is about to complete his new book. There is something missing in his book and he is not able to figure it out. He doesn't socialize much and tries to get to completion of his incomplete story.

He is suddenly part of an unexpected drama that turns his life upside down.

The suspense in the movie would be lost if i reveal more.

A nice light movie - One time watch.

Trailer below: (Source IMDb)

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi853581081/

Certified Copy (French/Italian/English)

The husband is a writer who specializes in art and has just released a book titled 'Certified copy'. He is of the belief that as long as a piece of art is reproduced as its original, it is as good as its original.

His wife, however, is an art collector who believes in originality. The whole movie is a debate on the importance of originality in art. It is beautifully intertwined with their daily lives and has quite a few lovely moments.

There are some key revelations which are brought out very well and hence keep you interested all the while.

Slightly on the slower side, but still a good one.

Trailer below: (Source IMDb)

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi3646593561/

Ready (Hindi)

I am not yet 'ready' with the review !! There is nothing to talk about - just keep your brains outside the theater and you should do good ...


Le Nom Des Gens (French) - 'The names of love'

I have not laughed this much in a long time...

Beautiful movie about 2 people who are at cultural extremes in the society - A jew and an Arab..

Baya, the Algerian French arab, sleeps with almost every politician she disagrees with to convert them. Arthur, who is a jew, is a vet who advises people on epidemics. Arthur has never been comfortable in the company of women and Baya, on the other hand, always ends up in bed right up on the first date. The events which unfold as these two come together are lovely and superbly executed. The extent to which these two are influenced by each other is portrayed very well.

An awesome, comic, thoughtful movie.

WARNING: This movie contains a lot of nudity and is NOT advised for children.

Trailer below: (Source IMDb)

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi4256603161/

Last Night

A typical post marriage movie. A couple after 3 years of marriage are tempted to be disloyal. A story about trust, lust and temptation.

Not a great movie, but you may watch it if you dont have anything else to do.

Potiche (French) - 'Trophy housewife'

A french movie setup in the late 70s which portrays the time when women's liberation was at its peak. A light comedy with a central theme of equality.

A rich girl gets married to a middle class man. He gets her father's factory as dowry and manages it in draconian ways. Trouble pops up and he is not cope with the pressure and lands up in the hospital. His wife, the original owner's daughter, is at the helm of affairs now.
She turns around the company in the absence of her husband. Her husband returns and sets up a plot to get her back to household work.

It is a story about how she gets transformed as these events unfold.

Trailer below: (Source IMDb)

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi1380096537/

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Avenue Lincoln,Montreal,Canada

Why you need to know French in a French Province !!

It is not one of the greatest of starts to the hiking season ! It hurts more since this one is going to be my last summer here in North America...

I planned my first solo hike ever - the trans Canada Trail. This is the same trail i did last fall with a friend of mine. (http://athmagyaan.blogspot.com/2010/09/trans-canada-trail-segment-st-tite-des.html)


The ordeal begins right there:

Website in french - No english translation available.
The campsites were shown as available on the website.
Tried calling the contact number listed. No answer - Voice mail was in French. I hear a beep and leave my name and number just in case sombeody returns my call.
There was no notice on the website indicating any special message.

I decide to go there directly since the campsites were mostly free even during peak season last year. I get up at 4AM on a nice sunny saturday and seven hours & 2 bus journeys later,  I reach the trailhead. Only to realize that the visitor's center (Sentier Des Caps) is locked. I enquire at the gas station near by. They somehow find the contact number (St Tite Des Caps it is a small village about 325KM north of Montreal) and give me a thunderbolt.
The season opens in July.

It seems that was the message in the French voicemail. This is the first time in past two years that I have felt the extreme need for French in this province. Montreal has a decent population that speaks English but the outskirts always have a miniscule population that is comfortable in any language other than French.

Anyways, I am still trying to figure out if I was to blame or if Quebec needs to be more open in terms of official communication for Tourism.

Let me continue thinking on what went wrong and will certainly post my opinion if i do reach a conclusion !!!

Till then, let me satisfy myself with Mont Royal (The city of Montreal derives its name from this hill) !!

Coming up next:
Grand Canyon (US) in the last week of June, and
Arctic Circle (Auyuittuq National park, Nunavut, Canada) late July.

Le Quattro Volte (The four times)

As I look back at the recent past, I realize that I have seen more offbeat and foreign movies than regular commercial flicks. Maybe it is a sign of changing preferences or maybe there are not enough good commercial flicks around or maybe Oscar fever has caught up on me. Whatever the reason maybe, I am certainly loving it.

This one is a dialog-less foreign movie. Well, there is nothing foreign in it as there is not even a single dialog in the whole movie. Which also implies that there were no subtitles!!

It portrays different aspects of human nature in the form of 4 elements - Human, Animal, Crop and mineral. Each of these has been shown as a different segment but has been impressively interwoven in the overall concept.

The moral of the story is that we live 4 lives :
As minerals- because we are made of salt, water and other organic matter
As crops - we breathe, reproduce and nourish ourselves.
As animal - we possess intelligence and can relate to the outside world.
And
As human - we are rational beings and have will and reason at our disposal.

Not a greatly captivating movie but does have some sparks of brilliance. Especially the way the lost young goat has been shot and it's feelings conveyed. Simple camera work, long uncut shots keep you occupied throughout the movie.

Great concept but execution could have been better. Nevertheless, a decent attempt and a very good message.

Trailer is available below: (Source - IMDB)

IMDb trailer

Enjoy!

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Location:Avenue Lincoln,Montreal,Canada

'In a Better World' - Danish film

Just back from (In) a Better World...

My tryst with foreign films continues. It used to be predominantly French until sometime back - but, of late this has extended to other languages as well.

After Incendies (French) & Biutiful (Spanish), it was time for 'In a Better World (Danish). All these were nominated foreign films for Oscars. If you want to play safe, start with the Oscar nominated foregin films - Chances are bright that you would get to watch some marvels.

This one is a lovely film with a great message. It tries to explore the thin line between justice and revenge. Wonderful perfomances from all the lead actors. It links a story in South Africa to another one in Denmark with utmost ease and draws parallels between them. The situations used to convey key messages are aboslutely delightful to watch and have a really strong impact.

And, the locations in Denmark were stunning with some beautiful shots of a riverside summer house and large fields amongst others. Africa, too, was pictured perfectly and everything seemed to be fitting very well into the script.

Despite the pace being slow, there was not a single moment when i was thinking about anything else. If you are a fan of really fast movies, then this may not be a great choice for you. But if are not, then this is a lovely watch.

Here is the trailer:

If you would like to see it on IMDb, here is the link:

http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi1945869593/

Enjoy !

Montreal to New York by train - Photos

All the images below belong to Andre Paquet who has been kind enough to allow posting them here. Thanks Andre !

Lake Champlain (This is the lake that train goes along for a long time)

Lake Champlain

Washington Bridge

Rhinecliff

Hudson

Montreal to New York by train

Crossing the US border by train was the only mode of transport that I have not attempted and hence I decided to do it his time. The expectations were high. I have heard a lot of people talk about the wonderful route between Montreal and NY.

Here are some reasons why you might consider traveling by train on this route:
1. AMTRAK's service is good - Announcements are entertaining. On my way to NY, the attendant proudly announced that this is a 19th century route and hence no WiFi. This may not be the right example here though!!
2. The route is scenic in the portion in US between Plattsburgh and Whitehall for 2.5 hrs or so. The train travels along a big lake all this while.
3. Lots of time to think as you have nothing else to do ! This might end up being an introspective trip if you are one of those hard thinkers.
4. Food is decent - much better than some other travel options I have had. Try out the chicken teriyaki rice bowl - it's nice!
5. The attendants are considerate enough to offer smoking stops as well..

However, I must say that I am not entirely satisfied with this journey. Here are the reasons why:
1. No WiFi on the train
2. No sleeper coaches - it is a 11hr+ journey. The seats were certainly comfortable but 11hrs is still a long time.
3. Border crossing takes up almost 1.5 hrs of the 11hr journey - the good thing is that you don't have to get down from the train.
4. The views were good but only for the portion mentioned above. The rest was pretty ordinary. My expectations were really high due to the heavy hype around this. The Pune-Mumbai route (3.5hrs) in India is much better I would say.
5. Sky high expectations. The whole trip would have been different otherwise.

So, travel with minimal expectations and you will be pleasantly surprised with this route.

I have asked for photos from a fellow traveller - they will be here once I receive them.

NOTE: This blog has been written real-time(during travel). However, courtesy AMTRAK, it has come online only after I reached home.



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Location:AMTRAK train 69 (NY to Montreal)

Yanni Live @ Montreal !!

It has been more than ten years since I have been listening to Yanni and this occasion was like a dream come true. 31st March 2011 would remain a special day all throughout my life.

Bell Center, the biggest stadium in Montreal, was packed to its max capacity (the website states 15000 for performances) for this enthralling performance from the maestro. The atmosphere was electrifying - just the presence of this huge audience was enough to set the stage for a wonderful performance.

It was 730PM and a fully occupied Bell Center was awaiting the maestro with anxiousness. Every passing minute was adding on more energy to the electrifying atmosphere. Speaking in Engineering terms, it was like 'Energy is proportional to Time' !!

And finally, the maestro's team arrives, which in turn increases the noise levels in the stadium. Nothing was going to calm us down except Yanni himself. A couple of minutes pass by and Yanni comes running (literally) on to the stage. He is greeted with a long applause by each and every individual present. For me, just seeing him from so close (i was sitting in the 15th row on the right side of stage) gave me levels of satisfaction that i have not seen in a while.

And then, for the next two hours, he took us to an entirely different world. As he rightly said "if I can take you away from your daily lives and give you some peace - i'll consider my job well done".. Yanni did way more than that !! Masterpiece after masterpiece, he was setting the mood up. There were also performances from his latest album 'Truth of Touch' which was released last month or so.

Of course, since he was in Montreal, there had to be some French sentences. With whatever little understanding i have of this language, I found it pretty decent.

As it turned out, it was not a dream come true only for me. It was pretty much the same for the maestro who was on this tour after several years. He talked about the times when he and his friend (on drums) were dreaming about THIS DAY. The day when they would be performing their heart out in front of a huge audience.

He was so genuine in each and every stroke of the piano and also in each and every sentence he spoke that I was completely drawn into the performance. Not even for a single moment was I reminded of the world awaiting me outside the stadium.

It had been almost two hours of non-stop music from the maestro and we realized (after making him come back twice after he left) that we were nearing the end. This was like nearing the end of a fully lit tunnel which has darkness on both ends.

But what did not realize was, as he was churning masterpieces one after another, that he did not play 'Santorini' from 'Live at the Acropolis'. It deserved to be right there in the end - the grand finale of this performance.

This is easily THE BEST event of my life, an event which gave me un-paralleled peace and satisfaction.

This one is indeed a fitting Finale for my stay in Montreal.

I would make every attempt possible to see him again whichever part of the world I am in..

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Location:Bell Center, Montreal

Tosca - My first Opera !!

And the weekend expeditions continue... The dip in mercury levels does accelerate the plans !

New York is a city that never fails to amaze me. In each of my previous trips, I have tried to explore a different aspect of the city.

The first trip is always a sight seeing trip for almost any city and it wasn't different for New York. I tried to explore the suburbs in the next trip driving past Brooklyn, Bronx etc. Without visiting these, one is easily led to believe that Manhattan IS New York. The next one was a walking trip through manhattan which was a marathon walk from Times Square till Wall street.

In this one, which is probably the most spontaneous amongst all my New York trips, I went to an opera for the first time in my life. And like every other 'first' experience in life, this too was an experience which was special.

It was saturday morning around 11 AM and we (Ashish (a friend) and I) were at Times Square wondering 'what next'. I have always wanted to watch a musical at Broadway ever since i visited New York. So we checked out if there were any of them just after lunch. The tickets were not affordable and we didn't have reviews of any of the musicals. Hence, we decided to give it a miss and walk down to Lincoln Square (The Metropolitan Opera) to checkout if there is any Opera scheduled for the afternoon.

Tosca and La Traviata were the ones scheduled and only Tosca was the only one scheduled for the afternoon. At times, it is good to be without options - makes your life easier.

Went to the ticket counter - options were given (not a problem here - because we weren't in a mood to bet a huge sum of money !) . We picked the second cheapest amongst the lot and ended up with standing tickets on the 'orchestra floor'. If i were to look back at this decision, it was real good value for money - especially for the first Opera when I was really not sure of the value of the performance to me. It is a different matter that i may not choose that option the next time around.

Now back to Tosca. Tosca, a creation of Giacomo Puccini, is a play setup in Rome during the early 1800s. It is a story of love, sacrifice and jealousy. Amazing performances by Sondra Radvanovsky (Tosca) and her lover, Marcelo Alvarez (Cavaradossi). The story was fairly simple but really powerful in its depiction. The subtitles on the small displays in front of the seats made it easier to follow the plot and get immersed in the story. The applause at the end was a sign of the success of the show. The music was pretty good. Though it didn't stand out it anyway - it certainly did compliment the story very well. Tosca adds on to the list of 'my firsts' in North America...

The only uncomfortable situation in the whole show was our attire. We were probably the most casually dressed. Ashish had a night out the night before and i was fresh(?) from travel the previous night - Certainly it doesn't mean we would have looked any different in formals !!

We were also probably the youngest at the show - But i am glad we made it.

This would remain in my memories for some time to come !



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Location:Montreal,Canada

Mee ShivajiRaje Bhosale boltoy and the rise of Marathi Cinema !

It has been some time since i have seen a Marathi movie.. And this one was a very pleasant watch after a long time.

Gone are those days when i used to be a regular at Prabhat/Neelayam theaters in Pune for Matinee shows. Also gone are the days of senseless comedies Ashok Saraf and Lakshmikant Berde.

Marathi movies, since then, have become socially relevant and it is certainly a pleasure to watch some of them. The shift possibly began with 'Saat Chya aat Gharaat' when Marathi cinema started focussing on relevant social themes instead of senseless comedies. Shwaas, Dombivili Fast and Natrang are great movies with wonderful performances. I am no expert on Marathi Cinema, but I can certainly sense a change in the mindset of the industry - the proof being the increasing number of movies having social relevance.

Coming back to 'Mee ShivajiRaje Bhosale boltoy', the performances of Sachin Khedekar and Mahesh Majrekar are stellar. Though it might gone in overdrive mode in the second half, it certainly sends across the message to all 'maharashtrians'. One of the learnings from the movies is the maturity in the definition of a 'Maharashtrian'. Sachin Khedekar, in one of the most prominent sections of the movie, defines a 'Marathi Manus' as anybody who has domiciled in the state of Maharashtra and does not limit it to those speaking Marathi. Going by this, even a taxi driver bhaiyya from UP or an Udupi/Marwadi who has setup business in Maharshtra becomes a Maharashtrian. The industry has gone way beyond the petty politics of MNS and others alike. And it is a welcome sign...

A must watch for anybody who has stayed in Maharashtra at any point of time in their lives - I can guarantee that you would be able to relate to it...

Way to go Marathi Cinema !! I am already awaiting the next big one...

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